13: fix: remove the photograph and make every page findable

[juliantellez]

What. Removes the photograph and makes the ten pages findable.

The picture. Gone. A deliberately out of focus photograph reads as a mistake rather than as
discretion, and nothing is better than that.

Why the pages could not be found. Three faults, all mine.

Every service title was a link styled text-ink with no underline, so a heading that was a link
looked exactly like a heading that was not. The eight pages were on the home page the whole time
with nothing signalling they were clickable. They now take the accent colour and an underline.

The header carried two links, Services and Work, both pointing at /services, and both hidden
below 640px with nothing replacing them. A phone had a wordmark and a mail button and no navigation
at all. There is now one honest link, visible at every width, and Work is gone until there is a
work page for it to point at.

The footer had one mailto link and nothing else. It now lists every page in three columns, on every
page, which is how a visitor and a crawler both find depth.

Tests. 40. Three added for this: a service link has to carry a visual affordance, every service
page has to be reachable from the footer of every page, and the header must not offer a link that
goes somewhere other than it says. Two were mutation checked, by setting the links back to
text-ink and by emptying a footer column.

One existing assertion was stale and is corrected rather than deleted: the 404 test checked that the
page did not contain the tagline, and the tagline is now in the footer of every page, so it checks
the heading instead.

Part of #2.